Scott and Jenn's Site| This article is a work in progress, and I am writing it during the
construction of several bird launchers. Updates will be made as the construction
progresses. First off, lets answer a few questions: What the heck is a bird launcher? A bird launcher is a device used to assist training a hunting dog. Often times wild birds are scarce, a bird launcher allows the trainer to position and release a bird when he chooses. Bird launchers usually launch pigeons, pheasants, quail, duck, etc. The bird launcher is remotely triggered, either with a manual string tied to a latching mechanism, or via a wireless remote control. Why build your own? The main reason is cost. Manual bird launchers are not that expensive, maybe $60 per launcher. But to purchase a remote controlled bird launcher, the price jumps up to about $300. Considering that one needs about 3 launchers for adequate training, one can see the total price jumps to nearly $1000 for 3 launchers. The second reason is because I like building things, plain and simple. What does it do? The bird launcher launches a bird several feet in the air. This inspires the bird to take flight. Launching the bird does not harm the bird. Homing pigeons can be used, as they will fly home after they are launched, and are thus reusable. Construction Supply List:
Tools you may need: MIG Welder Grinder Cut-off saw Drill Measuring Tape Sewing Machine Screwdriver Wrench Pliars Spray Paint Nylon Netting (usually available at fabric stores) Come up with a design Below I have inserted some of my drawings when I was thinking through the design. The basic box shape should measure somewhere around 6" x 12" to fit most birds. Some initial drawings: Basic shape, showing one arm extended, and one arm collapsed:  Top view, showing hinge axis and arms extended:  Basic box structure without arms attached:  Another drawing showing basic idea:  More detailed drawings Side view, showing how spring tension is used to release arms:  Side view, showing netting that will eventually be attached to arms:  Side view, showing arms collapsed and springs loaded, with bird pocket where bird would be placed:  Basic electronics schematics I drew up. It really is not as complicated as it looks:  Current latch mechanism idea (is there a better or simpler one?):  Electronics The electronics are relatively easy to hook up. Just a few crimp on connectors are needed. Here is what you get for $20... the receiver and transmitter. The receiver PCB with the relays measure 80mm x 50mm x 20mm. These look like they are the circuits from a remote car entry system. You can see the coil of antenna wire. Later we will run that antenna wire through a semi-rigid plastic tube so the antenna can stay vertical for maximum reception. One can also change the "security code" by changing a solder pad. We shouldn't need to change this unless we are getting some interference. The vendor's info on changing the security code can be found here.  Here is the receiver PCB wiring pinout, supplied by the relay kit supplier. As you can see, there are four relays on the board, but we will only be using one. The cool thing about this cheap kit is that the relays are rated at 10 amps @ 28VDC, which is plenty since they were made to trigger multiple lock solenoids.  Here is a simple wiring diagram I made that shows how to hook up the battery power supply to the PCB, and the relay connection to the solenoid. Again, simplicity was the goal here, so the PCB and the solenoid both run off the same 12VDC source. This eliminates the need for more batteries. The power supply will consist of (8) AA batteries, which will yield 12 volts. The 12 volt solenoid has a 26.7 ohm resistance, so using ohm's law we can figure that when the solenoid plunger is retracted, it will draw 0.45 amps. So the array of AA batteries will be reasonably compact and should give pretty good battery life. Also, you can find them almost anywhere, and also have the option to switch to rechargables if you wanted to.  Welding the frame Here you can see the three stages of building the frames:  Here's the small cut-off saw we used to cut all the metal. Much easier to make accurate cuts than with a cutting wheel on a grinder.  Here is my dad cutting a chuck out of the angle iron.  And here is the angle iron cut-out.  Again, the angle iron cut-out. This cut out area is where the arm is bolted to.  |
